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MeeBlip Nano
  • orangebugorangebug
    Hey Guys,
    I was bored today, so I figured what the heck, why don't I create a alternate version of the meeblip board!

    The MeeBlip Nano.
    Requirements:
    * Use surface mount components to increase component density (and allow for nested components)
    * Offer ALL features of the full-size MeeBlip (8 knobs, 20 switches in a 4x5 matrix)
    * Switches and Knobs on a separate board (via a 20-pin header)
    * Size no larger than 2"x3.5" (fits inside of an Altoids tin!)

    I'm thinking of a separate board that nests on top of the main board with the switch matrix and knobs attached. I'll probably use trim pots and surface mount switches for the controls. The Power, Midi and Audio out will all be connected via a mini-din connector mounted to the side of the Altoids tin. A splitter cable will split out to each connection type.

    Here's my quick mockup of the board so far:
    Board: http://i40.tinypic.com/2gx3adx.jpg
    Schematic: http://i43.tinypic.com/20kwqyg.jpg

    So far I've replaced all the resistors and ceramic capacitors with 1206 SMD components (the only SMD size I've used before, and not very hard to work with). I've also connected all the digital and analog pins to one 20-pin header. I've still got some work to do, so it's kind of messy at the moment.
  • meeblipmeeblip
    Looks good, Andrew.

    We're switching the Meeblip SE to surface mount after the first batch(keeping the through-hole version of the board for the DIY kits).

    We're also switching the Micro to SMD, with 16 switch inputs, along with save/load/midi switches and a jumper to select whether potentiometers are connected. It'll be available fully assembled in a few weeks.
  • orangebugorangebug
    Cool! Good to know.
    Ver 0.2
    Board: http://i42.tinypic.com/atoe4o.jpg
    Schematic: http://i41.tinypic.com/3482j2v.jpg
    I've moved the Power/Midi LED to the 20-pin header so it'll be on the top PCB. Also I need to make the top PCB...
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  • meeblipmeeblip
    @Andrew: That's very cool. I like the latest version.
  • orangebugorangebug
    Thanks James,
    Unfortunately I've been having computer troubles this week, and the eagleCAD project files are on a drive I can't access at the moment.  Once my new drive comes in, I should be able to recover them.

    Here's a quick electronics question, is there a logic circuit that would make a push-button toggle the high/low state of the circuit?  Here's what I'd like to do:
    Push the button, logic goes high, release the button, logic stays high.  Push the button again, logic goes low, release an the logic stays low.
    My idea is to use push-buttons for the top PCB, with LEDs to display their state.  I know I could do it within the code, but I'd have to use outputs I don't have to light the LEDs.  I suppose however the downside of using this method would be that it wouldn't display any of the MIDI changes.
  • orangebugorangebug
    Did some more research, and it's a JK Flip Flop that I want.  Now I just have to figure out the circuit for it.
  • orangebugorangebug
    Hey Guys,
    I've created the top PCB, this one has SMD components on both the top and bottom layers.  I may go back to the bottom PCB and do the same.

    I also managed to figure out the JK flip flop situation.
    Unfortunately they only make packages with 2 JK flip flops each, so there's 8 16-SOIC chips under the PCB, along with 16 SMD NPN Transistors!

    Here's the Top PCB's Schematic:
    http://i52.tinypic.com/oj4kye.jpg
    The Board:
    http://i51.tinypic.com/219x7p5.jpg

    And some fun google sketchup test renders I made with eagleUp:
    Top: http://i54.tinypic.com/20k26mr.jpg
    Bottom: http://i53.tinypic.com/j7g68o.jpg

    I do have 2 quick questions:
    I'm triggering each switch with a transistor now, so I'm assuming I don't need a diode on them anymore?
    Will the ATmega provide enough umph for the NPN transistors to work?  All the diagrams I've found of using transistors usually have the source tied to the VCC, and the drain to GND.  I've got the source tied to the columns, and the drain tied to the rows.
  • orangebugorangebug
    The google sketchup links didn't go clicky :(
    Top:
    http://i54.tinypic.com/20k26mr.jpg
    Bottom:
    http://i53.tinypic.com/j7g68o.jpg
  • peterpeter
    Wow, Andrew, really nice work. It's a really nice design. Keep us posted as you make this!

    Transistor, not diode, yes. I think that the ATmega will work fine here, but I defer to James on a more definitive answer to that question.
  • meeblipmeeblip
    You still need the diodes, because otherwise you'll get false triggers. Switch matrices are usually configured for momentary contact of a single switch. In this case, multiple switches turned on = multiple rows and columns active at one time.
  • orangebugorangebug
    Ok thanks, I'll add some diodes in the next revision.
    I'm also looking into some transistor array chips, might help to bring the chip count down some.
    Here's some of the components I've sourced so far:
    micro pot:
    http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9288
    SMD push button
    http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8720
    I'm also considering swapping out the smd button for some of these:
    http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10443
    That way the LED is integrated into the button.
    Also if the JK flip flop plan flops, (heh) then I can go with these instead:
    http://www.sparkfun.com/products/597
  • orangebugorangebug
    I think my matrixing may be wrong in the other versions.
    I went ahead and made a alternate version with switches instead of the fun LED push buttons.  And I'm trying out a new switch/pot layout.
    Schematic:
    http://i51.tinypic.com/29dbjph.jpg
    Board:
    http://i56.tinypic.com/6zua3a.jpg
    3D version with Altoids tin for scale reference, and the bottom PCB:
    http://i55.tinypic.com/1pgqxs.jpg
    It's kind of amazing how you could fit all that inside an Altoids tin.
  • orangebugorangebug
    Just for fun I swapped out the DIP40 ATmega for the TQFP44 version, and managed to squeeze in on-board matrixing with diode protection.
    Try to ignore the massive rats nest of vias:
    http://i44.tinypic.com/2jepw1f.jpg
  • meeblipmeeblip
    Keeps getting better. Things got quite noisy if the analog and digital grounds weren't split - In the SE, I ran separate analog power to the DAC's analog stage and the final filter stage.
  • orangebugorangebug
    A little more organized this time, and I've swapped out the opamp and DAC for their respective SMD packages.

    Sketchup model (with a few packages added):
    http://i51.tinypic.com/1znwqkz.jpg
    Bottom of the sketchup model:
    http://i56.tinypic.com/a9woqo.jpg

    Here's the board:
    http://i52.tinypic.com/2a8hk7t.jpg
    I've also added a mini-din 6 pin jack, (same as a P/S2 port) this gives you the power in, midi in, and audio out in 1 jack,( although it might have noise issues, I might have to refine it later).

    Schematic:
    http://i39.tinypic.com/2ivy85.jpg
    The switch headers have built-in matrixing and diode reversal protection.  So all you have to do is connect a switch to every pair, and you're set. 

    Also thanks for the mention on the main page.  :)
  • orangebugorangebug
    Re-did the top PCB with the TQFP version's header placement.
    Schematic:
    http://i53.tinypic.com/m9q4c2.jpg
    Board:
    http://i52.tinypic.com/24azsk0.jpg
    Sketchup model:
    http://i56.tinypic.com/ehzn69.jpg
    Sketchup beauty shot of the mockup:
    http://i53.tinypic.com/fc1und.jpg

    I think I'm getting close to something I'd spend money to prototype.  I still need to add the Status LED back in, and there's some traces I'll need to move around on the top PCB.
  • orangebugorangebug
    I showed off these designs to some of my friends, and one of my Sound Design Professors.  They were all amazed at how ridiculously small it was, especially after I should them the SparkFun page of the switch I sourced.

    My professor brought up a good point:
    Is this meant to be a performance device?  Or are those tiny little switches meant to be a set-forget style setup?
    My answer was a performance device, but I saw the conundrum.  As small as it was, it was too small to be useful.
    So I've decided to switch gears a little, and make it into something you would use for an embedded project.
    Essentially it's the same bottom PCB as before, but not designed with a top PCB in mind.
    Features: (mostly the same)
     * Extremely small size (3.5"x2"
     * Surface mount components, with some components under the board.
     * TQFP ATmega32 (This does mean you won't be able to replace just the chip, unless you're a desoldering wizard)
     * Headers for all 16 switches with on-board matrixing and diode reversal protection.
     * Headers for all 8 Potentiometers.
     * Headers for Power, Midi, Sound and the Midi status LED.
  • orangebugorangebug
    Woops, forgot to add the pictures...
    Schematic:
    http://i55.tinypic.com/af8uqb.jpg
    Components in blue are on the bottom of the PCB.
    PCB:
    http://i55.tinypic.com/af8uqb.jpg
    Sketchup Top:
    http://i53.tinypic.com/16hupl1.jpg
    And Bottom:
    http://i52.tinypic.com/2z8cjvc.jpg
    This eagleUp plugin for Eagle and Sketchup has been really useful for proofing designs.  I didn't notice in Eagle that R2's label was sitting on top of a hole until I saw it in Sketchup.
  • orangebugorangebug
    bah, schematic here:
    http://i52.tinypic.com/15hsle.jpg
    really wish this site had comment editing...
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